Sunspel is making the world’s best t-shirts in Long Eaton — just ask James Bond
Sunspel is making the world’s best t-shirts in Long Eaton — just ask James Bond
We've chatted with the luxury clothing brand’s creative director to find out why Nottingham is still at the heart of what it does...
Nottinghamshire has an amazing textile history that’s woven into the fabric of the county. One of the champions of this, which has been around for over 150 years, is Sunspel — a luxury English clothing brand based in Long Eaton.
We’ve spoken with Sunspel’s creative director David Telfer to find out why A-list stars reach for its shirts time and time again, how it grew into an iconic brand, and why it loves its Nottingham roots.
Whether learning about history is one of your favourite things to do in Nottingham, you like clothing, or simply love finding out about amazing creative happenings in the area, there are plenty of fascinating insights ahead. Let’s just say you won’t want to buy a fast fashion tee anymore after reading this.
“Long Eaton is at the heart of what we do” — Sunspel is making shirts for the stars in Nottingham
By Sam Swain
When it comes to luxury fashion, Long Eaton probably isn’t the first place your mind goes to. But, while the likes of Milan, New York and Paris might be known for high-end tailoring and cutting-edge designs, we have our own brand that does all that right here in Nottinghamshire.
Unlike many British brands nowadays, Sunspel pays more than just lip service to its roots — even today, it still has its factory in Long Eaton, where it has been based since 1937, with the brand being founded in Notts in 1860.
While its luxury t-shirt factory sits in Nottingham, the brand’s clothes are made and have travelled far and wide, in stores across the world and in the wardrobes of A-listers. Cillian Murphy wore the iconic t-shirt on the Oppenheimer red carpet. David Beckham is a fan. And, the most iconic British man of them all wears its attire.
Yes — I'm talking about James Bond.
“When they cast Daniel Craig as the new James Bond, the aim was to reinvent and modernise what had become a bit of a stuffy character for Casino Royale,” explains David Telfer, creative director at Sunspel. The stylist was Lindy Hemming, who was keen to dress Bond in a British brand. “Having known us through her father wearing the brand, she visited the factory and found three products that she thought would be perfect for this new modern Bond.” The creator of James Bond, Ian Fleming, also loved Sunspel — so much so that the Ian Fleming Estate has previously collaborated with it for capsule collections.
While Sunspel’s Riveria Midweight T-Shirt was created especially for James Bond in Casino Royale, the shirt that was most recognised in the film and seen as the garment embodying the change of James Bond's style was Sunspel’s Riviera Polo Shirt. Made of a warp knit mesh, it was developed in the ‘50s as a breathable alternative to pique by the great-grandson of Sunspel's founder. “Lindy took the polo, tailored it to Daniel Craig, and the iconic product was born. It is still one of our best-selling products 18 years later,” David adds.
In fact, the Riviera Polo has had something of a resurgence, touted by the likes of GQ and Esquire as an essential pick for those looking to elevate their wardrobes with more than just a white t-shirt.
Of course, being the choice of 007 isn’t something that can simply be attained overnight — a lot of the brands featured in the films have long histories of producing high-quality items over many years. David says. “We are 164 years old and have a lot of heritage to work from.”
Founded in 1860 as Thomas A. Hill Ltd by textile pioneer Thomas Hill, Sunspel began as an underwear and hosiery business in Newdigate, using high-quality cashmere and merino wool to create luxury garments. “Nottingham was known for lace and our founder was an engineer and innovator on these lace machines,” explains David. “He took what was mainly feminine floral laces and started developing contemporary meshes on warp knit machines.”
The result was almost early sportswear, breathable fine cotton meshes used for undergarments. “Although we don’t have the machines in the UK, we still use traditional warp knit lace machines for several of our key products, which date back over 60 years,” David adds.
This breathability, lightness and softness that comes from this heritage still inspire the pieces it creates today. It also led to some of the earliest t-shirts and boxer shorts — often shipped overseas as their breathable qualities made them perfect for hotter climates.
But it was the overall craftsmanship that set them apart — a value which has stood the test of time and is important today, even as it has broadened its scope beyond Long Eaton. “Quality was as much then and it is today at the heart of everything we do, which is of course very relevant to customers today,” explains David.
Now a global brand, Sunspel has factories across the world and stores in the US — including in LA, home of the stars. “We have grown on an international level, which is very exciting, but also stretches and challenges you as a brand,” says David. “But, having quality as the cornerstone means we still are very meticulous and treat clothing in a very precious way, as we have seen all of the work that goes into it.”
Despite this massive growth, Sunspel has remained in its Cavendish House factory in Long Eaton, continuing to design and manufacture here in Nottinghamshire. It was this story that first drew David to the brand. “I first came to Sunspel eight and a half years ago — as soon as I walked into our factory and saw the archive and history I fell in love, and we moved up as a family,” he says.
He continues, “Sunspel is a unique brand, with people that have worked here well over 20 years, passing down years of expertise, so I wanted to get closer to the people that were making the clothing I was designing.” David adds, “It has been a joy to see the craft and meet the people behind it.”
The careful, skilled work that goes into designing, sourcing, and manufacturing is evident in the product. I own a Sunspel t-shirt and the cotton is significantly soft, the seams are strong, and it feels like a garment of worth. A piece of clothing to enjoy and to care for rather than to simply wear and discard. Knowing it was made down the road by people paid a good wage for their time and skill adds an intangible value I’ve never had from a tee ordered online.
Thankfully, in today’s fast fashion world, of mass manufacturing, poor working conditions and near-enough single-use clothing, Sunspel is continuing to invest in quality materials and bringing in quality talent. “There is a great fashion and knitting course at Nottingham Trent University. We recently did a project with Trent and are fortunate to have the winner on a placement starting at Sunspel soon.”
What else is next for Sunspel? “We’re still in the process of growing our range, with the aim of making the perfect essential pieces for men and women that can be the foundation of any wardrobe.” He adds, “Our aim with every product we make is to try and ensure the quality and care matches our t-shirts made in our factory.”
For David and for Sunspel, the Cavendish House factory is much more than just something to pack up and move on from when the opportunity to cut costs comes up. “I think the factories around Nottingham need to be protected — although some still exist, sadly a lot have been lost.”
He continues, “The Sunspel factory in Long Eaton is at the heart of everything we do and the future of our factory continues to be one of the highest priorities for us,” he explains. “It sets a precedent for quality and for how we source, it’s where we design and, in truth, it is where the best t-shirt in the world is made.”
If you’re looking at the moth-bitten, worn-out t-shirt hanging limply in your wardrobe and are thinking it’s time for a change, Sunspel’s t-shirts are worth checking out. “I believe that a lot of people are looking for the best quality pieces that are made locally,” David finishes by saying.
By adding a Sunspel shirt to your wardrobe, not only will your closet mirror the ones of A-List celebrities, but you’ll also be hanging up a piece of Nottingham’s heritage.
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